Emma Tsao
Sonja Haagen-Smit, Janelle Rose Tolentino
DES40A A05
Cogdell
Aquaphor Raw Materials
Introduction
Aquaphor is one of the leading brands in skincare and one of the most trusted. Not a day goes by where it isn’t applied as a lip or body moisturizer. It can be used in various ways to repair dry, cracked, or irritated skin and can be applied to various places on the body. Using minimal ingredients free of fragrances and preservatives makes it gentle enough to use on babies and wounded skin. Not only does it moisturize skin, but it also protects it. This life cycle assessment aims to discover the origins and analyze the uses of raw materials acquired to create the skincare product Aquaphor. It encompasses the acquisition of raw materials to produce the ointment plus additional materials needed to manufacture packaging required for transportation and consumer distribution. Aquaphor reports that its healing ointment is composed of its main active ingredient, petroleum, as well as other inactive ingredients including mineral oil, ceresin, lanolin alcohol, panthenol, glycerin, bisabolol. Its recognizable tub is made using polypropylene. No fragrances or preservatives are added during the manufacturing process.
Petroleum and Mineral Oil
Aquaphor’s life cycle begins with the acquisition of its main active ingredient, petroleum. It remains the only active ingredient and contributes to 41% of the healing balm. (“How It Works”). On a chemical level, petroleum is a mixture of hydrocarbons that formed from the remains of dead sea organisms. With the combination of high temperature, high pressure and the span of millions of years, these dead organisms settled at the bottom of the seafloor under layers of sand and clay transforming into petroleum. (“U.S. Energy”). Petroleum is extracted from the earth via oil drilling rig machines (“Petroleum”). Mineral oil is another ingredient present in Aquaphor’s ointment and is a term used to describe various colorless, odorless liquids. When petroleum goes through the process of distillation, mineral oil is the liquid by product. Thus where we have petroleum, we have mineral oil. Petroleum provides a strong foundation for Aquaphor’s capabilities as it helps skin retain moisture and heals wounded skin by protecting it from outside germs (Gallagher).
Ceresin
Ceresin wax is a vital ingredient to Aquaphor as well as many other skin care products. It is derived from the naturally occurring mineral fossil ozokerite which is deposited in shale rocks and coal in mountainous areas. As a skin care ingredient, ceresin is responsible for controlling viscosity and serving as an emulsion stabilizer. This allows products to harden just enough to form a balm-like consistency (“Ceresin”). Similar to petroleum, it lays the foundation for the ointments formulation and physical form.
Lanolin Alcohol
The next ingredient, lanolin alcohol, has properties that soothe dry, dehydrated skin. A study from the year 2017 revealed that it has the ability to reduce skin water loss by twenty to thirty percent. Lanolin oil is sourced from sheep wool. Sheep naturally secrete lanolin, and it can be isolated via a centrifuge machine that extracts it from the wool. First the sheep are sheared, then the wool is put into a centrifuge machine. However, in order to produce lanolin alcohol from lanolin oil, lanolin is heated with water to undergo hydrolysis and as a result, a mixture of lanolin acid and lanolin alcohol are produced (“Lanolin”). For the sheep, lanolin conditions and protects their wool. Its conditioning property provides similar benefits for humana and is used in skincare for its ability to moisturize and improve the look of dry, cracked skin (Gallagher).
Panthenol
Moving forward, the next raw material is panthenol, also known as pantothenic acid. This ingredient comes from vitamin B5 and is found in all living organisms. It converts from panthenol to pantothenic acid when applied to the skin to enhance skin regeneration and repair. Panthenol offers numerous benefits for the skin including relieving symptoms of skin irritation, roughness, scaling, wound healing and redness. In addition it is absorbed easily into the skin and alleviates inflammation (Eucerin Products).
Glycerin
Glycerin is frequently added and widely available in cosmetic products because it provides additional moisturizing properties to further improve the function of the skin’s natural barrier (Eucerin Products). Also referred to as glycerol, this natural compound is a type of carbohydrate sourced from plants and animal oils and remains clear and odorless. Although it naturally occurs in plants, glycerin is more commonly produced through the hydrolysis of fats and oils (“Pure”). For the skin, glycerin targets the outermost layer and improves hydration. Similar to other Aquaphor ingredients it also contributes to improving the skin barrier function, protecting against irritants, healing wounds, and relieving dry skin. All of these properties earned glycerin the title of “humectant” which refers to a substance that reduces the loss of moisture (Gallagher).
Bisabolol
The last ingredient used in Aquaphor’s healing balm makeup is derived from the chamomile plant, and more specifically the German chamomile plant. The oil comes from the plant’s flowers although chamomile can also be synthetically produced (Pauline). Although it is mostly present in essential oils, chamomile has many medicinal properties too. In the context of skin care, it heals wounds, eases irritable skin such as eczema, and provides anti-inflammatory and pain relief. It also has an anti-aging effect due to its antioxidant properties which helps skin appear bouncy, glowy, and youthful (“Bisabolol”),
Packaging
Being one of the leading skincare brands around the world, Aquaphor has strong branding that makes it easily recognizable to the consumer eye. The traditional tub packaging is made entirely out of polypropylene. Polypropylene remains the second most manufactured synthetic plastic valued for its elasticity and durability. Through a process of polymerization, propylene gas is transformed into propylene by utilizing a catalyst system (Nikolovska). Beiersdorf, the Germain global skin care company, is responsible for manufacturing Aquaphor’s packaging. They report that all parts are injection molded (Pierce).
Conclusion/Sustainability
As mentioned earlier, Aquaphor is manufactured by the German company, Beiersdorf. Their mission statement stands as the following, “Skincare is our passion, but ultimately, we strive to care beyond skin. To care for skin is to care for people - it’s in our DNA, formulas, packaging, decision making, and ways of working, always keeping the consumer, community, & planet top of mind” (“Our Purpose”). In terms of sustainability this company has taken steps towards package redesign to reduce environmental footprint while saving on material costs. Plastic is not a renewable resource which calls to question the environmentally friendliness of Aquaphor as a product. Furthermore, its most used ingredient, petroleum, is also not a renewable resource. In addition to pledging to sourcing resources in an ideal way, their newest design minimizes overall waste and helps simplify production processes saving on energy and waste output.
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Energy:
Wastes and Emissions:
Janelle Rose Tolentino
Emma Tsao, Sonja Haagen-Smit, Janelle Rose Tolentino
DES 40A
Professor Cogdell
The Wastes and Environmental Impact of an Aquaphor Healing Ointment Tub
Aquaphor is one of the most popular skin healing brands in the US and many other countries. Its healing properties from its main active ingredient petroleum jelly and other inactive cosmetic ingredients, as well as its fragrance-, paraben-, and dye-free characteristics make it safe to market for use for all ages, including newborns. Depending on the size and purpose, Aquaphor products are also inexpensive and easy to purchase from local supermarkets and drugstores. Making it one of the top recommended brands in the skincare industry by dermatologists and medical professionals. It's no doubt that Aquaphor is a reliable product for medical and cosmetic uses, however its liability in the wastes and environmental effects of the sourcing, manufacturing, and transportation it produces in the environment questions the sustainability of any Aquaphor product for the future; mainly due to its active ingredient, petroleum jelly.
An Aquaphor healing ointment tub is composed of one main active ingredient, 41% petroleum jelly and six other inactive ingredients. Petroleum jelly is a byproduct of petroleum oil rig drilling, making it a secondary source. It is a waxy petroleum material that is vacuum distilled and filtered through bone char or activated charcoal to produce refined petroleum jelly. The question of sustainability and longevity of producing petroleum jelly comes from its source, oil rigs. Oil rigs have been proven to negatively impact the environment, mainly the aquatic ecosystems because of the location. Its production and main goal is to extract natural gas resources from underneath the seabed. Locating, building, and maintaining an oil rig is extremely dangerous and harmful for all organisms. The main two components to build and maintain an oil rig are steel and concrete. Steel requires the extraction of iron ore and burning of fossil fuels during its sourcing. Steel production contributes an approximation of about 7-9% of global carbon dioxide emissions according to ThePipingMart. Similarly, concrete production is also one of the leading industries that emits large amounts of carbon dioxide globally into the atmosphere. According to Concrete Recruiters and the BBC, concrete production is responsible for about 8% of global carbon dioxide emissions. Not only that but concrete and steel damages the top layer of soil, increases soil erosion, water pollution and flooding, and environmental degradation. So in summary, before obtaining petroleum jelly, oil rigs need to be built first to produce the waxy, hydrophobic byproduct that is petroleum jelly; but in doing so, causes environmental degradation, land and water pollution, and contributes to global warming by emitting large amounts of carbon dioxide into the atmosphere. During its production or active life, oil rigs also produce greenhouse gases such as methane. The separation process during the distillation of crude oil produces the various fractions of petroleum, including petroleum jelly. The process is energy-intensive and further contributes to greenhouse gas emissions, mainly carbon dioxide. During the refinement process, it is further purified with activated charcoal or bone char to remove impurities and unwanted substances from the jelly which is then filtered through a mesh screen. The emissions that come out of this process are also greenhouse gases, mainly carbon dioxide. The waste (leftover unwanted impurities) that is produced from the purification process could be from the crude oil processing such as, carbon dioxide, phantom chlorides, organic acids, sulfur, and brackish water containing chloride salts. Because of its hydrophobic properties, petroleum jelly is not biodegradable. There are no current sustainable ways to source petroleum jelly since it is a byproduct of oil rig production.
Similar to how petroleum jelly is obtained, one of Aquaphor’s inactive ingredients, mineral oil is also obtained from refining crude oil. Although both are from crude oil production, petroleum jelly is the byproduct of the oil drilling process while mineral oil is the byproduct of gasoline production. The mineral oil used in Aquaphor products are also purified and refined just for cosmetic use. The refinement process goes through an atmospheric and vacuum distillation, dewaxing, oleation (acid treatment), and hydro-treatment. The production process of making mineral oil emits greenhouse gases such as carbon dioxide and wastes such as, salts, minerals, and heavy metals from its refinement process. The byproducts of acquiring petroleum jelly and mineral oil are that it produces wastes such as liquid and/or semi liquid chemical wastes, carbon dioxide and other greenhouse gas emissions from oil production. In a way, petroleum jelly and mineral oil are one of the many wastes that is produced from making oil and could be referred to as thus. However, because of its hydrophobic characteristics and the refinement process for cosmetic use, both types of waste are a good way to “recycle” the byproducts of producing oil.
The other inactive ingredients that make up an Aquaphor product are Glycerin, Lanolin alcohol, Panthenol, Ceresin, and Bisabolol. Glycerin is sourced from animal fat and vegetable oils; and can be obtained through hydrolysis of the oils and fats, it could also be obtained through the fermentation of yeast, sugar, or starch. The wastes and emissions that come from the processes are carbon dioxide emissions (and other GhG), contaminated/wastewater, and extra biomass and animal waste from the extraction process. Lanolin (alcohol) is from the secretion of the sebaceous glands in sheep skin, aka sheep sweat; it is washed out when the wool is being cleaned in hot water. The wastes from getting lanolin are sand and dirt from washing the wool, contaminated/wastewater from washing and adding scouring detergent, sweat salts, and wool grease. The refinement process of Lanolin emits greenhouse gases, mainly carbon dioxide. Panthenol is made from vitamin B-5 (aka pantothenic acid) and can be sourced from plants, animals, and/or fossil fuels. Some manufactures make synthetic pantothenic acid for cosmetic use or mix petrochemical and natural raw materials. It converts alcohol to vitamin B-5 via oxidation. The process of oxidation can produce gases like NOx and carbon dioxide, while the extraction process (sourcing) produces biomass and animal waste. Ceresin is from ozokerite, a mineral fossil wax derived from petroleum or mineral sources. It is treated with powdered ozokerite with concentrated sulfuric acid. Treatment process requires heat, and contributes to greenhouse gas emissions, mainly carbon dioxide and because of the added sulfuric acid, an addition of toxic fumes like sulfur trioxide. Bisabolol (or a-Bisabolol) is derived from essential oils of edible and ornamental plants. The two main plants are the German chamomile plants and the Brazilian candeia tree bark. The extraction process is similar in the distillation of essential oils and is then refined even more to separate Bisabolol. This process can either be done synthetically or naturally through fermentation. If made using the fermentation process, the emissions produced are carbon dioxide and the wastes produced are biomass waste. Synthetic bisabolol requires using chemicals and petroleum, however it results in lower purity levels. The resulting wastes and emissions from using this process are greenhouse gases, potential toxic fumes from chemical additions, and biomass waste from the extraction process. All of these ingredients play a part in the moisturizing and healing aspect of an Aquaphor product. The majority of these ingredients are derived from animal and/or plant parts which results in biomass waste, water contamination during the purification process, changes in environmental and geographical composition, and greenhouse gas emissions, mainly carbon dioxide.
Aside from the production and manufacturing processes, the containers of Aquaphor products are durable and recyclable if kept and processed right; but if thrown to a landfill or trash waste, the Aquaphor containers are now just non-biodegradable waste polluting the environment. Since there’s no current listing or articles concerning its materials for its packaging, considering its shelf life and added cosmetic ingredients to the petroleum jelly, it can be safely assumed that Aquaphor packaging is a specialized type of plastic made to be able to meet its maximum possible shelf life. Unlike plastic bottles or plastic bags, recycling skincare-based containers are much harder to assess if they are able to be recycled. Compared to an ordinary plastic bottle, like an Aquafina or Kirkland plastic bottle, an Aquaphor container is hard plastic. Because of its ingredients, packaging an Aquaphor product in an ordinary, flimsy plastic container would only shorten its shelf life and lessen its skin healing properties. Aquaphor products have a shelf-life of about two years. If the product remaining in the container is not used, the product is no longer really safe for use and would need to be thrown away so as to not pose a medical threat. Since the Aquaphor product is 41% petroleum jelly, its non-biodegradable and hydrophobic properties as well as the plastic container make it difficult to properly recycle or repurpose an Aquaphor product beyond its usability. In general, to recycle skin care-based containers, the containers have to be washed first to get rid of any cosmetic residue still inside or else it won't be able to be recycled. This results in water contamination and pollution due to the ingredients and chemicals in the cosmetic product. However, not all containers are recyclable, so they are either upcycled to mimic another product, reused by using refills, or simply end up in landfills, contributing to about 400 million tons of plastic waste per year. Obtaining the needed materials for making packaging and containers results in environmental degradation, biodiversity loss of trees and terrain, greenhouse gas emissions, and water contamination from washing.
Aquaphor manufactures from Mexico, China and Germany. Including US manufacture, the transportation and distribution of Aquaphor products to its retail locations also produces emissions and wastes in the environment. According to National Geographic, an approximate 195 million gallons of gas are wasted in the oceans annually from maritime transportation. About an estimate of 24% carbon dioxide emissions globally are from transportation in a report from Our World in data in 2020. Freight (from trucks) transport emissions account for 29.4%; about a total of 15% for total carbon dioxide emissions come from road transports. Shipping accounts for about 10.6% of transport emissions. According to the EPA, marine, aircraft, and weighted trucks account for an estimation of about 35% of greenhouse gas emissions by the US in 2022. The distribution of Aquaphor products from overseas contributes to emissions of pollutants like NOx, SOx, and particles (ex. PMx), land and water contamination of heavy metals and petroleum products, noise pollution, soil erosion, and environmental degradation due to urban expansion and material consumption.
To summarize the life cycle of an Aquaphor product and the wastes and emissions it produces in the environment: Petroleum jelly is only obtainable through the drilling process of getting crude oil in oil rigs and similarly, mineral oil is obtained through gasoline processing. Oil rigs are mainly composed of steel and concrete who are leading contributors to global carbon dioxide emissions. During this process of acquiring petroleum jelly and mineral oil, greenhouse gases such as carbon dioxide are emitted, waste from the purification process produces water and land pollution such as drilling fluids (mud), and causes environmental degradation in marine, shore, and land environments. Its other inactive ingredients, Glycerin, Lanolin Alcohol, Panthenol, Ceresin, and Bisabolol can be sourced through animal and/or plant parts, and some through fossil fuel production. Production and obtaining these ingredients produce greenhouse gas emissions, biomass waste and loss, water loss and contamination due to the purification process, and changes in environmental compositions. Containers are likely made of hard plastic, made just for the cosmetic lifespan of an Aquaphor product; recycling these containers is strict because of its size and properties. Not properly recycling, upcycling, or reusing these containers result in plastic pollution which leads to water and land contamination, environmental hazards for animals and plants, and biodiversity loss due to packaging. Manufacturing and transportation result in major greenhouse gas emissions, water contamination and pollution from shipping, air pollution due to aviation, land and soil erosion due to land transportation and urban expansion, and noise pollution from operating these vehicles. From that point, the Aquaphor product is now in store for purchase to consumers. Since there is no “refill” product once a person runs out Aquaphor, the Aquaphor product has a linear lifespan; meaning that after all of the product gets used up or it expires, it either gets recycled to be made into another product or ends up in a landfill. From start to finish, an Aquaphor product, the healing ointment tub, is compliant in emitting carbon dioxide and other greenhouse gases; contributes to water, air, and land pollution leading to climate change; plastic and noise pollution; environmental degradation; wastes in biomass and mammals (animals); chemical contamination of the environment due to sourcing and synthetic production of the ingredients. To note, while there are no sustainable ways to source petroleum jelly, there are alternative ingredients who have similar chemical properties and function the same that have a lower carbon footprint in the environment, such as beeswax or shea butter. The same goes for mineral oil, with alternatives like coconut oil or olive oil, the carbon footprint of Aquaphor could be therefore lessened by changing its ingredients. However, this could ultimately result in biomass loss and environmental degradation and changes in composition. It's still a better alternative to the petroleum byproducts as it’s biodegradable within our lifetime and has less negative environmental impact and carbon footprint.
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